The short rib starts its night when we finish ours. At midnight the smoker is loaded with oak, the ribs go in under a crust of black pepper, and the night porter keeps the fire low until the kitchen comes in.
By lunchtime the fat has rendered, the connective tissue has turned to gelatine and the bark is nearly black. We wrap each rib in butcher paper for the last stretch, so it keeps its bark and doesn’t dry out, then let it rest for an hour before it’s carved.
The pink line under the crust is the smoke ring: a reaction between the smoke and the meat, and the mark of a slow fire.
Questions
Is it on every night?+
We smoke twelve a night. When they're gone they're gone, usually by eight on a Saturday.
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